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Finding and dealing with battery leakage/corrosion

Last updated October 21, 2008

A common problem with jukeboxes (Rowe/AMI, Seeburg, and Rock-Ola models from the 80's), pinball, video games, portable computers, and electronic devices using Alkaline or Nickle-Cadmium (Ni-Cad) batteries is the situation with battery leakage.

      What happens is, your battery (that is hiding somewhere in the game) gives up the ghost, and unfortunately, as it dies, leaks out an alkaline: Potassium Hydroxide. This is a corrosive base, much like lye. The way to neutralize the leakage, after removing the battery, is to wash the affected area with a solution containing a 50/50 mixture of (white) vinegar and pure water. Scrub carefully with a good toothbrush, and then rinse with pure water and force dry with a hair dryer. Here is a picture of typical corrosion on a Game Plan pinball MPU. Note the crusty crud on the circuit traces and the corroded legs of the components. This board is salvageable by our shop.

You should consider replacing any IC sockets that were near the battery or that you see any signs of corrosion-usually a white residue near or under the IC socket. Also the components that are near the battery must be examined for signs of corrosion on the leads. This corrosion can etch into the interior of the plastic body of the electronic components and hence cause destruction, months or years later.

Now, if you have saved your game board you will want to replace the battery and we recommend one of two solutions.

If the game is actively used, then a new Ni-Cad battery will work fine, as it will be kept charged, although it is recommended that you consider extending the wires, and placing the battery in a 'Zip-Lock' style baggy to protect the game from future leakage.

If the game is to be used on a more casual basis, then either operate the game without a battery or get a battery holder that will equal the original voltage when stocked with AA batteries, and extend the wires so the batteries can sit on the base of the area where the board is. Then seal the battery assembly in a "Zip-Lock" style bag so if the batteries leak the vapors and liquid will be confined to the bag!

You will need to isolate the battery assembly from the original charging circuit by the use of an isolation diode (1N4002). The ground wire of the battery assembly goes to the original ground for the battery and the positive wire will first be connected to the non-banded end of the isolation diode, then the banded end of the diode can be soldered to the original positive point for the battery.

Battery locations for various games:


Note, any pictures of the battery on the board and game names that you can add to this list, please email me

    ALLIED LEISURE PINBALL   
  • None used batteries
  • ATARI PINBALL
  • Only Superman and Hercules used batteries, 3 "AA"
  • ATARI VIDEO   
  • Pole Position
  • BALLY PINBALL   
  • 1976-1985
  • 1986-1993
  • CAPCOM & DATA EAST PINBALL
  • All Capcom pinballs use three "AA" batteries
  • GOTTLIEB PINBALL
  • System 1
  • System 80/80A/80B
  • System 3
  • GOTTLIEB VIDEO 
  • Reactor
  • Q-Bert
  • GAME PLAN PINBALL  
  • All games use Ni-Cads, check yearly (156K JPEG)

  • INTERFLIP PINBALL
  • Alaska
  • MIDWAY VIDEO
  • Omega Race (mounted on main board MUST be removed!)
  • Tron - on power supply board, needs removal!

  • RECEL PINBALL
  • Crazy Race, Mr. Evil, and all other System 3 games all used a Ni-Cad battery - Replace!
  • SEGA PINBALL
  • All games use 3 "AA" batteries, should be changed once a year, with the power on so you don't loose settings and book-keeping information.
    Seeburg Jukeboxes
  • SMC series (after about 1978) no earlier machines, also the SCD series used batteries!
  • SONIC (DBA) SEGASA PINBALL (Spain)   
  • Solid State games?
  • STERN PINBALL
  • All Electronic pins are the same as Bally 1976-1985
  • WILLIAMS PINBALL
  • All digital (glowing displays!) games use 3 "AA" batteries, should be changed once a year, with the power on so you don't loose settings and book-keeping information.
  • WILLIAMS VIDEO
    Robotron-Corrosion2.JPG (55073 bytes)
  • Defender, Stargate, Bubbles, Joust, Sinistar, Robotron, - All games use 3 "AA" batteries, should be changed once a year, with the power on so you don't loose settings and book-keeping information.
  • ROWE/AMI Jukeboxes
  • R82(/83? /84? /81?) model has TWO batteries - one in the MEMOREC Selection Computer and the second in the MEMORY UNIT under the record player . Corrosion and bad caps need to be looked at too...


    Wurlitzer Jukeboxes

  • Post-1985 German models used a battery on the SC&C Computer 
  • Zaccaria Pinballs
  • Solid State pinballs, many had a battery on the MPU board - remove it!

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